Why smoking in bars remains a big draw in France, and for whom the bells toll - twice
The French way of life continues to throw up up little surprises and will continue to do so the longer we stay and become more integrated into the community ...
David Hockney’s latest self-portrait, painted in Normandy, where he is enjoying the French way of life. Photo: Courtesy of David Hockney
We live in a town in the middle of the country, very rural and extremely traditional and on the whole quite charming.
Last Friday we went to the local Bar/Tabac for a drink, for the first time as a couple. Not only did the owner fail to check our Pass Sanitaire, or Covid pass, which he is required to do by law, but the smoking regulations also appeared to have bypassed the establishment as there were a handful of blokes sitting at the bar, puffing away on cigarettes.
With all the nicotine smoke wafting around, it was like stepping back in time, and although I am not a smoker there was something almost comforting and slightly narcotic from the hit of tobacco. We stayed for one drink, but didn't stand at the bar with the smokers, but took a table at the back.
I reflected on how the artist David Hockney would love the place and would have joined the other smokers at the bar, chuffing away while drinking a glass of red - and is indeed one of the reasons he now lives in France since smoking was banned in England in all public indoor spaces – including workplaces, pubs, restaurants and nightclubs – in 2007. France introduced a similar ban in 2008, but as Hockney says, much to his approval, the laws are less strict in some places.
The reason why I didn't mind entering a public place and a room full of smoke was because subconsciously I think it was a reminder of when life was much freer, simpler even, and after living for almost two years with curfews, bans passes, vaccinations and masks it came as a breath of fresh air if you will pardon, in this case, the non-sequitur.
Another quirk of living in a rural community is that the church bells in the town ring the hour twice … I mean there is a delay of a couple of minutes and it chimes the hour again. I always presumed there was another set of bells on the school building or town hall that was slightly out, and it puzzled and slightly annoyed me as to why the town timekeeper was unable to sync them with the correct time.
It wasn’t until I recently read a post on an ex-pat Facebook group that I discovered the real reason for this campanological clanger.
In many parts of rural France, the bells will ring twice with a slight delay as it harks back to the days when people worked in the fields to make sure they heard the strikes to let them know when to knock off for the day - or more importantly for lunch.
Speaking of which, in Nice, when I last visited a couple of years ago, the mayor instructed a cannon to be fired from the cliffs above the town at 12noon sharp every day, to signify lunchtime.
In times of heightened terrorist activity, at first, I found the gesture slightly unnerving and couldn’t quite believe the reason for the earth-shattering explosion above my head, but such is the importance placed by the French on taking lunch I see both examples as fanfares for the common man - and while we are at it why not let him smoke while enjoying a glass of wine?
Cocoa break: Fairtrade Fortnight in the UK
Photo: Fairtrade
The Annual Fairtrade Fortnight campaign, which started this week, will highlight the impact of the climate crisis on cocoa and other commodities – as well as renew its call for fairer incomes for farmers.
Fairtrade has been established for over 25 years and the premiums it pays to farmers does help make a difference to their livelihood and the planet.
Fairtrade said public understanding of the links between decent incomes for farmers and climate resilience is low – but there is a strong public will to address inequality caused by exploitative trade and climate change.
In short, the chocolate and cocoa companies should pay farmers more for their crop - and consumers should be willing to pay more for a bar of chocolate if it can be proved the ingredients have been sustainably sourced and the packaging is environmentally friendly.
Quote of the week: “What lessons will we learn? I’m 83, I’m going to die. We die because we are born. The only things that matter in life are food and love, in that order, and also our little dog Ruby. I truly believe this, and for me, the basis of art is love. I love life.” David Hockney
Spotify playlist: An esoteric mix of music curated just for you and to get me through the night, day, while I work and play. Thanks for your suggestions - a couple of new tracks added this week!
We're coming back here, we're coming back in here! Oo, lovely Ffrench Ffags!